Uber-organic, macro-organic, meta-holistic…however you want to describe the philosophy behind biodynamism, it, along with its organic cousin, has been turning heads in the wine world due to environmental and quality concerns. Rhône icon Michel Chapoutier has been spearheading the move to biodynamic vineyard and winery practices for over fifteen years. His own winery, Maison M. Chapoutier, has embraced the idea of ’seeing the entire vineyard as a single organism’ since 1991, and helped to create a French biodynamic certification body, Biodivin, which is solely based on the certification of viticulture.

Despite the demands and challenges inherent in choosing a biodynamic cultivation strategy, Maison M. Chapoutier feels very strongly that it is the only way to get a true impression of terroir. The website states their motivations as

[a]n unflinching desire: ensure that soils are living and as expressive as possible. As to propose an “appellation d’origine contrôlée” is to propose above all an expression of the terroir. This expression, a transmutation of mineral to plant, can only exist with a terroir that is in good condition, a terroir that is alive.

I personally know absurdly little about biodynamic practices, but perhaps that’s just as well. I’m not a fan of such expressions as “well, it’s good for a biodynamic wine”, or paying special attention to any peculiarities that may result. I want the wine to speak for itself. Is it a good wine? Do I just plain like it? And in that evaluative sense, ignorance could just be beneficial.

All that said, you probably guessed that Michelle and I picked a Chapoutier wine for Wine Blogging Wednesday #29: Drink Biodynamic. Our wine consultant at the local liquor store looked at us like we had three heads (each, not combined) when we asked for a recommendation, so it was up to us to hunt down a bottle, mercifully in the general list section, that fit the criteria.

Tasting Note: M. Chapoutier — Rasteau 2004

Country: France
Appellation: Côtes-du-Rhône Villages
Producer: M. Chapoutier
Blend: Grenache; possibly some Syrah and/or Mourvèdre
Alcohol: 12.9% (w/v)
Residual Sugar: LCBO Sugar Code 1 (D)

Price: $17.10(CDN)
Visit the vineyard!

Grenache makes me nervous. It makes me think sweet and somewhat sickly. There was a bad experience back on the road somewhere that hasn’t quite worked its way out of my system. Trying the Rasteau then, was an attempt to get over that under the guise of biodynamism.

A combination of subtle oak and a smidge of graphite immediately had us in the mind of pencil shavings (spice & mineral), though this wasn’t as pronounced or as clearly defined as in other wines we’ve had. This, and a hint of caramel-vanilla sweetness, blew off after a little bit of decanting to reveal a ripe bunch of blackberry and cranberry underneath. Juicy, but far from jammy, the cranberry sauce and raspberry evident on the tip of the tongue died off, leaving the mid-palate a little bare for my liking, before ending with very nice, structured tannins. A great lingering finish and a solid bottle of wine. Could probably stand to age for a couple of years yet.

After the initial tasting, I tried it again the following day and enjoyed it much more for its mid-weight, easy-drinking nature. I quickly finished off the bottle (for shame) and was left with a bit of a dilemma with regards to my rating. Ordinarily I would have tucked it into a lower category than I did, however my repeat trial and happy sipping made me rethink. The 2004 is a great value from a major Rhône producer, and is one of the more understated and elegant Grenache wines I’ve tried in this price range.

Erin’s Rating: I’d Hit It/Repeat Offender

Michelle’s Rating: I Wouldn’t Make Faces